Thursday began the long-anticipated "dieciochero" festivities. Much like on American Independence Day, Chileans celebrate September 18 with lots of red, white and blue decorations, big family gatherings and massive grill-outs. However, I have to admit that Chilean Independence Day is way more impressive than the 4th of July for the following reasons:
1) The length
El dieciocho (the 18th) is just one tiny little part of the grander "Fiestas Patrias" that celebrate Chilean pride. The Fiestas Patrias last for a minimum of 4 days. As I mentioned before, some people extend the celebration into a week-long event. In comparison, our dinky little 4th (with celebrations sometimes beginning on the evening of the 3rd) is just way too short.
2) The fondas
Oh me oh my you haven't lived until you've seen a Chilean fonda. Basically it's a HUGE outdoor fair with a rodeo, restaurants/food vendors, artisan vendors, carnival games, carnival rides and stages with singing and dancing! AMAZING. And the best thing about the fondas is that there are numerous ones throughout the city - each with their own character, reflecting the feel of the neighborhood where it is located. For example, the first night I went to the Las Condes/Vitacura fonda, which was set up like mini restaurants with pretty tables and real plates and silverware and such. Then last night I went to the fonda at Estadio Nacional in Nunoa, which had more of a boardwalk/Six Flags kind of feel. Nonetheless, both fondas were awesome.
3) The food
Hamburgers and hot dogs? Puh-lease. Fiestas Patrias asados (grill-outs) include: choripan (chorizo with bread), chuchulles (cow intestines), little bits of meat cut off from the ends of the main meat to serve as appetizers as everyone waits by the grill for it to be done, salads, bread and then various cuts of red meat. Then fruit. Then dessert. Then coffee/tea.
The food at the fondas usually includes: empanadas, anticuchos (meat kebobs), parillas (mini charcoal grills brought to the table to keep your family-sized pile of meat warm), completos (hot dogs w/mayo, guac + more) and more.
3) The drinks
The most popular thing to drink during Fiestas Patrias is chicha- a type of fermented wine, typically made from grapes or apples. Kinda tastes like grape juice with just a hint of alcohol. Delish. I was a little nervous to try chicha because I remember hating it when I was in Peru last summer...but then I realized that the Peruvian chicha is made from corn instead of apples or grapes.
Other popular beverages:
-Vino con chirimoya: white wine with pieces of chirimoya (custard fruit that tastes like a vanilla-y pear)
-Borgona: red wine with strawberries
-Terremoto (earthquake): pineapple ice cream, fermented white wine called pepino, grenadine and something else. Delicious but incredibly dangerous. One is more than enough.
-Tsunami: pineapple ice cream, fermented white wine called pepino, mint liquor and grenadine. Once again, delicious but incredibly dangerous. One is more than enough.
4) The dancing!
This one really sets Chile apart. Every time I described the 4th of July to people, they wanted to know what kind of dancing we did on that day. I ashamedly had to admit that the US doesn't really have a national dance, therefore we don't really do much dancing on the 4th. Down here, Fiestas Patrias means time for the cueca - the national dance of Chile. Adorable girls wear flowery dresses and carry around frilly handkercheifs while macho men walk around with mantas (cowboy panchos) and big hats and boots with spurs. Then, the moment the cueca music starts playing, the couple gets in position to do their adorable little dance. First the guy and girl link arms and parade back and forth. Then they clap to the music. Then they start tapping their feet while moving in a figure 8 motion while also flirtily fluttering around their handkercheif. Then they move in a half moon quarter circle until they touch their partner, then back to the center, then a half moon the other direction, then another figure 8, then lots of boot stamping. It's absolutely precious, especially when old married couples do it.
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In summary: I think I'm going to bring some Fiestas Patrias traditions back to the US to spruce up July 4th. Don't know if I can make it into a 4-day event or if I can institute a national dance; however, I do think I might be able to make a red, white and blue version of a terremoto?? I'll let you know what happens.
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